FEEDING

Rabbits are probably the easiest of all pets to feed. Much of the diet can be provided at a very low cost. Pelleted rabbit food is designed to meet all of a rabbits nutritional needs and can be found at your local pet or feed store. Most fruits and vegetables are happily received by rabbits. Make sure to wash and give them in moderation as a treat between meals. The important thing is to establish a regular time of feeding. Once in the morning, afternoon or evening with tidbits provided throughout the day. A rabbit needs to have fresh water available at all times. More water is lost via perspiration, urine and fecal waste than is provided in food. Water can be supplied in earthenware pots or gravity fed bottles. However bottles are preferred; the water can’t be spilled or contaminated by urine or droppings.

GROOMING

To keep your rabbit happy and healthy, you should begin a brushing routine as soon as you bring your pet home. Not only does brushing remove loose hairs, but it can also strengthen the owner-pet bond. You can find a comfy place to sit and hold your rabbit in your lap or use a grooming table. A shorthaired breed can be groomed once in a while using a flea comb; however a longhaired breed needs to be groomed almost everyday or every few days depending on the coarseness of the coat- using a slicker, pin brush or a wide toothed comb. Also be sure to check the condition of your rabbit’s nails during regular brushing sessions. They will usually need to be trimmed monthly. Avoid bathing because it may cause too much stress on your pet. Besides, rabbits are such clean animals, they don’t need baths. If your rabbit is dirty, spot clean it – never submerge the entire rabbit in water – and thoroughly dry it using a warm (not hot) dryer.

*Consider taking your longhaired rabbit to a professional groomer to have its fur trimmed to keep hairballs and mats at bay.

HEALTH

It is better to avoid illness rather than having to treat it. Probably over half of all rabbit ailments are partly or wholly attributed to poor husbandry. Just consider the multitude of potential causes of spreading disease, creating stress and reducing a rabbits natural resistance to illness: drafty accommodations, inadequate diets, unclean feeding dishes, contaminated foods, lack of exercise. Each one of these aspects can induce an illness and then cause it to spread. If you think your rabbit may have contracted some form of illness no matter what the cause you should contact your local vet or breeder or even search the Internet for more information. It should be treated as soon as possible to prevent serious illness or even death.

*Getting acquainted with your pet will help you realize when something is wrong with him

HOUSETRAINING

Rabbits are very clean by nature - in the wild they relieve themselves in the same spots and don’t soil the inside of their burrows. Domestic rabbits too tend to deposit their urine and pellets in just one or a few places and respond well to housetraining. Some rabbits learn to use a litter tray by themselves but most need a little help from their carers. The majority of bunnies quickly learn to urinate in a tray, but will still scatter a few droppings on the floor. This is normal bunny behaviour and the dry, odourless droppings can easily be disposed of. You can housetrain a rabbit when she is just a few weeks old; adult rabbits are often easier to train because they have already been through adolescence and are generally neater and more relaxed, especially if they are neutered. Neutering and spaying are essential if you are keeping your rabbit indoors. During adolescence rabbits become very restless and want to mark their territory with lots of urine and droppings.

*I have a small detailed book available for those who’d like to know ‘how to’ train their rabbit.

HOUSING & EXERCISE

Finding the proper house for your rabbit will depend on 2 factors; whether it is to be an indoor or outdoor pet. If you are planning to keep an indoor rabbit it may be easier and less expensive to find the right cage for him. After he is housetrained, his cage will serve the purpose of a bedroom. It will be a place to stay while you are out, or in bed. Ironically, rabbits seem to enjoy spending some time in their cages and will hop in and out at will if the door is left open. They treat their cage like a special place of their own. However if you are planning to keep an outdoor rabbit you may find it slightly more difficult to find the proper hutch and to find a safe, adequate place to put it. You will need a wire cage with a drop pan for

cleaning purposes. And it will have to be sheltered from weather. Your rabbit will also need to be let out of his hutch for exercise. So you may need to ‘rabbit proof’ your backyard or space; ensuring that he will be safe from predators, poison, dangerous objects and mainly from escaping. If your rabbit were to escape you may never get him back. Another method of exercise involves taking your rabbit for a walk such as you would a dog. The differences are that you will need a special harness rather than a leash and also that your rabbit will basically be taking you for a walk- not the typical up and down the sidewalks.

*Remember to always be looking for potential danger when you are outside with your pet rabbit. A predator can zip out and scoop up your pet before you can get between them. One shake from a dog and your rabbits back will be broken.

With time and patience, having a rabbit as a pet will be a very rewarding experience. Though they do require care and attention, you may find them to be less care than a dog. They are a good mix of the entertainment and friendliness of a dog but cuddly and independent like a cat. Bunnies take time. They require that we take time out to sit and watch and do nothing else. Besides getting a well-trained bunny for your efforts, you also get a short period of time each day to watch one of the most charming little creatures on earth explore, skip for joy, and in general entertain you with her bunny-ness.

Why spay and neuter rabbits?

Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers for an unspayed female rabbit is virtually eliminated by spaying her. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.

Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.

Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 15 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in North America every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.

Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.

Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. A rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.

Is surgery safe on rabbits?

Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.

At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?

Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger rabbit. Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3-1/2 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old.

What does the surgery cost?

Most veterinarians charge somewhere between $55 and $180. Most spay and neuter clinics charge between $35 and $75 dollars.